ENCW 205: Art & Identity in New Orleans

Taste Through Time: A Historical Compilation of New Orleans Cookbooks

New Orleans, renowned for its vibrant and diverse culinary scene, has a long history of embracing flavors, ingredients, and techniques from around the world. Throughout the city’s history, aromatic and comfort-filled baked goods like coffee cake have found a special place in the hearts and kitchens of New Orleanians around the Holiday times. To understand the complexity and richness of flavor in New Orleans, one must first be aware of the cultural and generational influence that different groups that have historically occupied the city imprint on its unique culinary flavor profile. 

According to the Historical New Orleans website, the introduction of bakers and millers to the city during the early eighteenth century laid the foundation for the emergence of coffee cake in New Orleans. These early laborers, primarily of French descent, brought with them not only their skills but also a passion for the art of baking. As New Orleans developed into a bustling port city, the demand for diverse and delectable baked goods grew steadily.

In the early 19th century, the city’s baking scene began to flourish, with nearly sixty bakeries dotting the New Orleans landscape by the year 1820. This period marked a pivotal moment in the culinary history of the city, as it witnessed the convergence of various cultural influences. Long before over-done french brunches were served around every corner of the city, French bakers, inspired by their European heritage, started experimenting with traditional pastry and coffee cake recipes, adapting them to the local ingredients and palates, with a great emphasis on the use of freshly farmed ingredients, and strong shelf-stable seasonings. This marked the birth of coffee cake in New Orleans, a delightful confection that would soon become an integral part of the city’s culinary identity, as well as the nation’s. 

As time progressed, New Orleans continued to evolve as a cultural melting pot, attracting immigrants from Germany, Italy, and Anglo-American regions. These newcomers brought their own baking traditions and flavors, further enriching the city’s pre-existing culinary diversity. Coffee cake, with its adaptability and versatility, whether it was plated up and served for breakfast, or a Pâtisserie course post-supper, became a canvas for these various influences. German immigrants, for instance, introduced the concept of the streusel toppings you can see and taste, adding a sweet and crumbly irresistible layer of goodness to the coffee cake. Italian bakers have incorporated flavors like almond into their coffee cake recipes, contributing to its unique character.

By the turn of the 20th century, the city directories were brimming with listings for bakeries, reflecting a remarkable increase in their numbers. This proliferation of bakeries allowed for a wider variety of coffee cake styles and flavors to emerge. Whether it was a traditional French-style coffee cake with a delicate, flaky crust or a German-inspired streusel-topped version, the options were abundant.

One can say that coffee cake in New Orleans evolved as a result of the convergence of French, German, Italian, and Anglo-American influences within the city’s vibrant culinary landscape. From its humble beginnings in the early 19th century, coffee cake has become a beloved and enduring part of New Orleans’ gastronomic heritage, a testament to the city’s ability to embrace and adapt diverse culinary traditions, and leaving an undeniable impression on the nation as a whole. 

Selection of Cookbooks

The overall aim of this compilation is to offer a brief but diverse and informative collection that not only showcases the recipes and techniques but also provides a cultural and historical context for New Orleans’ cuisine. Through these carefully selected cookbooks, we have the key to gain a deeper appreciation of how food has played a central role in shaping the art, identity, and heritage of this incredibly captivating city. Whether exploring the Creole flavors of old New Orleans or the rustic Cajun recipes, each cookbook contributes to a rich culinary history that is uniquely New Orleans. Several key criteria were employed to curate a collection that would authentically represent the diverse culinary landscape of New Orleans throughout its history.

• Era Representation: One crucial criterion was to ensure that the chosen cookbooks spanned different historical eras. By including cookbooks from various time periods, the aim is to capture the evolution of New Orleans’ culinary traditions over the years. This is done with the goal of tracing and making note of the changes and adaptations that have taken place in the city’s cuisine, from its early roots to its more contemporary expressions.

• Cultural Influences: Another significant factor in the selection process was the consideration of cultural influences. New Orleans is renowned for its unique fusion of cultures, including French, Spanish, African, Cajun, Creole, and more. To truly reflect the city’s rich heritage, we sought cookbooks that highlighted these diverse cultural influences. Each cookbook chosen provides insights into how these cultures have contributed to the city’s food identity, making it a melting pot of flavors and techniques.

• Popularity and Significance: The popularity and significance of the cookbooks within the culinary landscape of New Orleans was also taken into account when considering the collection of cookbooks. Some of the selected books are considered classics and have had a lasting impact on the way people cook and understand food in the city. They have also become touchstones for preserving and celebrating the unique culinary traditions of New Orleans.

Historical Context

In 1718, French explorer Jean-Baptiste Le Sieur de Bienville founded the colony of La Nouvelle Orleans along the banks of the mighty Mississippi River. The French had a vision of a North American Empire, one that would connect the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Gulf of Mexico via the Mississippi River, Ohio River, and Missouri River. Trading posts were established along these waterways, fostering trade with native tribes.

However, this dream was never fully realized. The French and Indian War erupted, a brutal struggle between the French and British empires for control of the valuable Ohio River valley. This global conflict led to the complete defeat of the French in North America, as the Treaty of Paris in 1763 granted control of French Canada to the British and everything west of the Mississippi River to the Spanish, including New Orleans.

During this time, the aftermath of the French and Indian War led to the forced relocation of many French Acadians, who found their way to New Orleans and became the Creole population we know today.

Under Spanish rule from 1763 to 1803, New Orleans flourished as one of North America’s largest cities and a bustling port. Following the devastating fire of 1788, the city underwent a transformation, with much of the rebuilt city taking on a distinctive Spanish-Creole architectural style.

Demographically, the city also underwent a significant shift. The Free Black population in New Orleans expanded tenfold during Spanish rule. This was due to more liberal slave laws under Spanish governance, allowing for the existence of free people of color and even granting some enslaved individuals the opportunity to purchase their freedom. The Haitian Slave rebellion further contributed to this population growth, as many residents of the planter class sought refuge in Spanish-controlled Louisiana.

Napoleon Bonaparte’s reorganization of Europe and the forced transfer of the Louisiana territory to French control ultimately led to its sale to the young American nation under President Thomas Jefferson. This pivotal moment in history significantly impacted New Orleans’ cultural diversity.

In the early nineteenth century, New Orleans emerged as one of the most diverse cities in North America, boasting a blend of French, Spanish, African, Creole, and American influences. This cultural mosaic extended to the city’s culinary scene, where ingredients, techniques, and flavors intertwined to create a unique gastronomic identity.

However, it’s important to acknowledge the dark shadow of slavery that cast its pall over this period. The strictest slave laws enforced by the U.S. government deeply affected the enslaved population in the Louisiana territories until the arrival of Flag Officer David G. Farragut in 1862, who liberated New Orleans from Confederate control, marking a turning point in the city’s history.

In the pages of New Orleans’ culinary history, we see the convergence of cultures, the resilience of its people, and the flavors born of this diverse and complex heritage that continues to inspire and define the city’s unique culinary identity today.

 

Culinary Techniques and Ingredients

Culinary techniques serve as the heartbeat of New Orleans cuisine, infusing its dishes with a distinct and unforgettable flavor profile. Over centuries, these techniques have evolved to embody the city’s history and the fusion of cultures that have converged in its kitchens. Upon conducting a deep dive into the fundamental culinary techniques that define New Orleans cuisine, three techniques stuck out to me as ones that remain prominent in American and specifically southern cooking today:

Roux 

• Roux is a mixture of fat (traditionally lard, butter, or oil) and flour cooked together over low to medium heat. The cooking time and color of roux can vary from light blond to dark brown, as it varies depending on the recipes used. The darker the roux, the nuttier and more robust the flavor. Roux adds a creamy, heart and nutty complexion to the bite, emphasizing earthy spices and herbs like all spice, clover, thyme and seasoning salts. 

• Roux has its roots in French cuisine and was brought to New Orleans by French settlers. Over time, it evolved in response to the availability of local ingredients, and began appearing in dishes not exclusive to the french cuisine. In Creole and Cajun cuisine, roux is used as a thickening agent for dishes like gumbo, étouffée, and jambalaya. Dark roux, which is common in Cajun cooking, adds a deep, smoky flavor to dishes. Today, roux is a staple in southern cooking, bringing comfort, heartiness and sometimes even heartburn on cold December evenings in dishes like chicken and dumplings, a southern favorite of mine. 

  Blackening

• Blackening involves coating seasoned meat or seafood with a mixture of spices, typically including paprika, cayenne pepper, and other fragrant and pigmented herbs and spices. The meat is then seared in a hot cast-iron skillet, creating a charred and flavorful crust. The intense heat seals in juices and imparts a smoky flavor. Blackening is credited to the late Chef Paul Prudhomme, a Louisiana native who popularized the technique in the 1970s. It’s influenced by both Cajun and Creole flavors and is known for its bold, spicy taste. Dishes like blackened redfish gained immense popularity and became synonymous with New Orleans cuisine. 

  Baking

• Baking, as a cooking technique, holds a unique and accessible place in New Orleans’ culinary heritage. It involves using an oven to cook food through dry heat, making it a versatile method that has left an indelible mark on the city’s food culture. Not only is baking a popular choice for preparing a wide range of dishes, but its ease and convenience have made it accessible to home cooks and professionals alike.

One of the remarkable aspects of baking in New Orleans is its wide accessibility. Many households had ovens when the french arrived, and this cooking method allowed for the preparation of a diverse array of foods, from simple bread and biscuits to intricate pastries and desserts. The convenience of baking has played a significant role in the development and sustainability of various culinary traditions within the city.

Baking’s influence extends beyond French and German techniques. It has also been embraced and enriched by different African community in New Orleans. The art of baking is evident in the creation of beloved dishes like sweet potato pie, cornbread, and various types of biscuits and cakes alongside coffee cake. These recipes have been passed down through generations, celebrating the flavors and traditions of rich culture and tradition in New Orleans.

The fusion of baking traditions from French, German, and Black communities has resulted in a culinary landscape that celebrates diversity and innovation. This harmonious blending has given rise to other iconic New Orleans treats like king cakes, which are eagerly enjoyed during Mardi Gras season. Additionally, the city’s famous French bread, used in po’boy sandwiches, reflects the collaborative nature of its culinary traditions, as it combines the French art of breadmaking with the local flavors, influences and preferences of New Orleans.

Baking is not only a versatile and accessible cooking technique in New Orleans but also a symbol of the city’s cultural diversity. It bridges culinary traditions from various demographics, ultimately creating a rich connection of flavors and recipes that are cherished by both locals and visitors alike. The ease and convenience of baking have made it an integral part of everyday life in New Orleans, allowing the city’s unique culinary heritage to thrive and evolve throughout the years. 

Citations

• Fitzmorris, Tom. Tom Fitzmorris’s Hungry Town: A Culinary History of New Orleans, the City Where Food Is Almost Everything. United States, ABRAMS, Incorporated, 2014.
• Patout, Alex. Patout’s Cajun Home Cooking. United Kingdom, Random Hosue, 1986.
• Butler, Anne. Acadian Plantation Country Cookbook. United States, Pelican Pub., 2007.
• New Orleans Home Cooking. N.p., Pelican Publishing Company.
• Link, Donald, and Disbrowe, Paula. Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link’s Louisiana: A Cookbook. United States, Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed, 2012.
• Evans, Freddi Williams. Congo Square: African Roots in New Orleans. United States, University of Louisiana at Lafayette Press, 2011.
• Reed, Julia. Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties: An Entertaining Life (with Recipes). United States, St. Martin’s Publishing Group, 2009.
• Martin, Ti Adelaide, and Shannon, Jamie. Commander’s Kitchen: Take Home the True Tastes of New Orleans with More Than 150 Recipes from Commander’s Palace Restaurant. United States, Broadway Books, 2000.
• Richard, Lena. New Orleans Cookbook. United States, PELICAN Publishing Company, 1999.
• Begue, Elizabeth, and Tooker, Poppy. Mme. Bégué’s Recipes of Old New Orleans Creole Cookery. United States, Pelican Publishing Company, 2012. 

  JA Art&Identity Project